Free climbing. Just the name makes you think of amazing feats of strength, skill, and daring. But who is the absolute best in the world? That’s a tough question, as the climbing world is full of incredible athletes pushing the limits of what’s possible. It’s also important to remember that “best” can be subjective – is it about the hardest routes, the most innovative climbs, or the overall impact on the sport?
While there isn’t a single, universally agreed-upon “best free climber,” we can definitely highlight some of the biggest names who consistently redefine what’s possible on the rock. We’ll explore their achievements and contributions to the sport.
Key Figures in the World of Free Climbing
Let’s look at some climbers who are frequently mentioned in discussions about the world’s best. These athletes have not only sent incredibly difficult routes, but they’ve also inspired countless others to take up the sport and push their own boundaries.
Alex Honnold
Probably the most recognizable name in climbing today, Alex Honnold gained worldwide fame for his free solo ascent of El Capitan’s Freerider route in Yosemite National Park. This means he climbed a massive, nearly 3,000-foot granite wall without any ropes or safety gear. While he’s best known for free soloing, Honnold is also an accomplished free climber on roped routes. His calm demeanor and incredible focus under pressure make him a truly exceptional climber.
Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic is widely considered one of the most technically gifted climbers of all time. He’s known for his incredible power, flexibility, and ability to decipher incredibly complex sequences of moves. Ondra has made first ascents of some of the hardest sport climbs in the world, including “Silence,” which is considered to be the world’s first 9c (5.15d) rated climb. His dedication to training and his analytical approach to climbing make him a force to be reckoned with.
Tommy Caldwell
Tommy Caldwell is another legendary figure, known for his groundbreaking ascents in Yosemite. He, along with Kevin Jorgeson, completed the first free ascent of the Dawn Wall on El Capitan, a multi-year project that captured the world’s attention. This climb was particularly challenging because it involved incredibly difficult and technical climbing, requiring years of preparation and innovation. Caldwell’s resilience and problem-solving skills are truly remarkable.
Margo Hayes
Margo Hayes is a standout female climber who has broken barriers in the sport. She became the first woman to climb a route graded 9a+ (5.15a) with her ascent of “La Rambla” in Siurana, Spain. Hayes’s achievement was a major milestone for women in climbing and demonstrated that female climbers are capable of performing at the highest levels. She’s a role model for aspiring climbers everywhere.
Ondra vs. Honnold: A Quick Comparison
It’s interesting to compare climbers like Ondra and Honnold, as they excel in different aspects of the sport. Ondra is known for his extreme sport climbing ability on incredibly difficult, short routes. He focuses on the technical challenges and physical demands of these climbs. Honnold, on the other hand, is famous for his free soloing and his ability to manage risk on long, exposed climbs. Both climbers are pushing the limits of what’s possible, but in different ways.
What Makes a “Good” Free Climber?
So, what qualities do these climbers possess that make them so successful?
- Strength and Endurance: Free climbing requires a high level of both strength to hold onto small holds and endurance to maintain that strength over long periods.
- Technique: Efficient movement, precise footwork, and the ability to read the rock are all crucial for success.
- Mental Fortitude: Climbing can be mentally demanding, requiring focus, determination, and the ability to manage fear.
- Experience: The more time you spend climbing, the better you become at understanding the rock and developing your skills.
- Risk Assessment: Knowing your limits and making smart decisions about when to push yourself and when to back off is essential for safety, especially in free soloing.
Safety First!
While free climbing is an amazing sport, it’s important to remember that it can be dangerous. Always climb with a partner, use proper safety gear, and know your limits. Take climbing courses from certified instructors. Start with easier climbs and gradually work your way up to more challenging routes. Never attempt a climb that is beyond your abilities. Free soloing should only be attempted by experienced climbers who have thoroughly prepared for the route.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between free climbing and free soloing?
Free climbing means climbing with ropes and other protective gear to prevent a fall, but only using your hands and feet to move upwards. The gear is there for safety, but not for assistance. Free soloing, on the other hand, means climbing without any ropes or safety gear at all. A fall would likely result in serious injury or death.
What is the hardest climbing grade?
The hardest climbing grade is currently considered to be 9c (5.15d). Adam Ondra made the first ascent of a 9c route called “Silence” in Norway.
How can I get started with free climbing?
The best way to get started with free climbing is to take an introductory course at a local climbing gym. You’ll learn the basics of climbing technique, belaying, and safety. You can also climb outdoors with experienced climbers who can teach you the ropes.
Is free climbing an expensive sport?
Climbing can be expensive, especially if you’re buying your own gear. However, many climbing gyms offer affordable memberships and rental equipment. You can also find used gear online or at climbing shops.
What are some popular free climbing destinations?
Some popular free climbing destinations include Yosemite National Park in California, Red Rock Canyon in Nevada, and Fontainebleau in France. There are also many great climbing areas around the world, so you can find a place to climb no matter where you live.
Conclusion
The title of “world’s best free climber” is constantly being challenged and redefined. While there may not be a single answer, the climbers discussed here— Alex Honnold, Adam Ondra, Tommy Caldwell, and Margo Hayes, among others—are certainly at the forefront of the sport. Their dedication, skill, and innovation continue to inspire climbers around the world. Remember to prioritize safety and enjoy the journey of improving your own climbing skills. Whether you aspire to climb mountains or simply enjoy a challenging workout at the gym, climbing offers something for everyone.