The world of free climbing is filled with amazing athletes who push the limits of what’s possible on rock. Trying to pick just one “best” free climber is super tough because everyone has different strengths, specialties, and climbs they’re known for. It’s like asking who the best athlete is – a marathon runner or a weightlifter? They’re both incredible but in different ways. However, we can definitely talk about some of the climbers who are consistently at the top of their game and who have made huge contributions to the sport.
What Makes a “Best” Free Climber?
Before we dive into specific names, let’s think about what qualities make someone a top-tier free climber. It’s not just about raw strength, although that’s definitely important. It’s a combination of a bunch of different things:
- Technical Skill: This means knowing how to use your feet and hands efficiently, understanding different types of holds, and being able to move your body smoothly and precisely.
- Strength and Power: Free climbing requires a lot of upper body strength, but also core strength and explosive power to make difficult moves.
- Endurance: Many climbs take hours, so you need to be able to keep going even when you’re tired.
- Mental Toughness: Climbing can be scary and frustrating. The best climbers are able to stay calm under pressure, focus on the task at hand, and keep trying even when they fail.
- Route Reading: Being able to look at a climb and figure out the best way to go is a huge advantage. It saves energy and helps you avoid getting stuck.
Also, it’s good to remember that different climbers shine in different disciplines. Some are amazing sport climbers, focusing on bolted routes with high difficulty grades. Others are boulderers, tackling short, powerful problems close to the ground. Still others are trad climbers, placing their own protection as they go up, which adds a whole new level of challenge and risk.
Some of the Greatest Free Climbers
Okay, with all that in mind, let’s talk about some of the climbers who are often mentioned in the “best of” conversations:
Alex Honnold
Alex Honnold is probably the most famous climber in the world, thanks to the movie “Free Solo,” which documented his ropeless ascent of El Capitan in Yosemite. While free soloing is a specific (and very dangerous) discipline, Honnold is also an incredibly skilled free climber in general. His dedication, mental control, and physical abilities are truly remarkable. What sets him apart is his ability to remain calm and focused under extreme pressure.
Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra is a Czech climber who is widely considered one of the most talented and versatile climbers of all time. He’s excelled in sport climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. Ondra is known for his incredible strength, flexibility, and his ability to quickly figure out difficult routes. He has climbed some of the hardest routes in the world, including the first ascent of “Silence,” the world’s first graded 9c (5.15d). His dedication to training and pushing the boundaries of what’s possible is truly inspiring.
Tommy Caldwell
Tommy Caldwell is an American climber known for his big wall ascents in Yosemite, particularly his first free ascent of the Dawn Wall of El Capitan with Kevin Jorgeson. This climb was a massive undertaking that took years of planning and effort. Caldwell’s perseverance, creativity, and problem-solving skills were essential to their success. He’s not just a strong climber but also a skilled route finder and a master of aid climbing techniques, which are often necessary for preparing big wall climbs for free ascent.
Margo Hayes
Margo Hayes is an American climber who, in 2017, became the first woman to climb a route graded 9a+ (5.15a) with her ascent of “La Rambla” in Siurana, Spain. This was a huge milestone for women in climbing and demonstrated that women are just as capable as men of climbing at the highest levels. Hayes’s dedication, training, and mental strength have made her a role model for climbers around the world.
Janja Garnbret
Janja Garnbret from Slovenia dominates the competition climbing scene. Her consistency and skill in both lead climbing and bouldering are unmatched. She’s won multiple World Championships and Olympic gold medals. Garnbret’s dynamic movement, incredible power, and mental fortitude make her a force to be reckoned with in any competition. Her achievements showcase the dedication and athleticism required to excel at the highest level of competitive climbing.
Free Climbing Safety Tips
If you’re interested in trying free climbing yourself, it’s really important to prioritize safety. Here are a few basic tips:
- Get Proper Instruction: Take a class or hire a guide to learn the basics of climbing technique, belaying, and safety procedures.
- Use the Right Gear: Make sure you have a properly fitting harness, climbing shoes, and a belay device. Always inspect your gear before each climb.
- Climb with a Partner: Never climb alone. Always have a partner who can belay you and provide assistance if needed.
- Start Small: Begin with easier climbs and gradually work your way up to more difficult routes. Don’t push yourself too hard too soon.
- Check the Weather: Avoid climbing in wet or icy conditions.
- Communicate Clearly: Use clear and concise commands when belaying your partner.
Free climbing can be an incredibly rewarding activity, but it’s essential to take it seriously and prioritize safety above all else.
Frequently Asked Questions
What’s the difference between free climbing and free soloing?
Free climbing means climbing using only your hands and feet to move up the rock. You use ropes and gear for protection in case you fall, but you don’t use them to help you climb. Free soloing is climbing without any ropes or protection at all. If you fall, you will likely be seriously injured or killed.
What’s the hardest free climb in the world?
Currently, “Silence” in Flatanger, Norway, graded 9c (5.15d), is considered the hardest sport climb in the world. Adam Ondra made the first ascent of this route.
How can I improve my free climbing skills?
The best ways to improve your skills are to climb regularly, focus on technique, and work on your strength and endurance. Consider joining a climbing gym or finding a climbing coach who can provide personalized instruction.
Is free climbing dangerous?
Free climbing can be dangerous, but it’s generally safe when practiced with proper instruction, gear, and precautions. Always climb with a partner, check your gear, and be aware of your surroundings. Free soloing is extremely dangerous and should only be attempted by highly experienced climbers with exceptional skills and mental control.
So, who is the “best” free climber in the world? It’s really a matter of opinion and depends on what criteria you’re using. All of the climbers mentioned above are incredibly talented and have made significant contributions to the sport. The most important thing is to appreciate their achievements and be inspired by their dedication and passion for climbing. Whether it’s Honnold’s audacity, Ondra’s raw power, or Hayes’s groundbreaking accomplishments, each climber adds to the rich tapestry of this challenging and rewarding sport. Now get out there and climb (safely)!
